Sneak Peek At Brown Thomas’s A/W Collection
AW15 came alive in a whimsical whirl of nostalgia, with references to the 50s, 60s and 70s continuing through to the 80s. A futuristic overtone was present blurring the lines from decade to decade.
Nostalgic and feminine overtones with dark, Victorian influences have emerged this season. New, clever and precise constructions with bespoke appeal pushed boundaries. Punk and grunge were dominant trends flawlessly executed by Givenchy, Saint Laurent and 3.1 Phillip Lim. Embellishment makes for an important message with crystals, hardware and ornate embroidery added to almost every design. Lace was ever-present in all its forms from 3D to guipure but featured in a much more casual, contemporary way.
The wealth of rich, jewel-inspired hues kept catwalks alight ensuring AW15 veers away from darker tones. Traditional autumnal colours take a glimmering restyling with golds, emerald greens and sapphire blues shining bright into the exciting season ahead.
A new wave of retro, with strong futuristic nuances swept the runways with designers taking inspiration from the 60s, 70s and 80s and giving shapes a modern edge. Metallic and bonded fabrics made a galactic statement. The catwalks of Saint Laurent, Prada, Peter Pilotto and David Koma all referenced this trend.
The AW15 runways saw exquisite feminine shapes emerging accomplished by impeccable craftsmanship. Designers drew on original classic patterning, elaborating details and a refining attention to detail. Fabrics are luxurious, almost bespoke. Designs are infused with dynamic cuts, material folds and hand-stitching creating a one-of-a-kind sensibility. Silhouettes sat close to the body and long midi-lengths dominated, in a colour palette of black, grey and white.
At Stella McCartney, the collections bordered on couture. Victoria Beckham combined ribbed knits with elegant wrapped skirts, while turtleneck dresses were strikingly created with swatches of chenille and silk. Balenciaga featured ovoid coats and jackets as well as waist-focused tulip skirts with a street edge – seams were held together with metal staples whilst black leather belts took the form of collars on jackets.
The runways were awash with a gothic theme for AW15, evident through an abundance of leather, Victorian frills, lace detailing, fringing and patches of embellishment all adding to this darkly decadent trend. This look was hard-edge yet fun making for a strong fashion look. Under the veil of Victorian silhouettes, glorious materials and ornate patterns created a dramatic and nostalgic effect. Sheer fabrics, lavish embellishments, floor-skimming skirts and frilled details were key. Many designers were inspired by this dark romantic aesthetic infused with a bohemian feel including Alexander Wang, Givenchy and Victoria Beckham. The beauty and decay of a rose was explored at Alexander McQueen.
Op Art influenced designs brought a new intensity to the continuing graphic monochrome trend. Chequerboard, swirls and chevrons were the focus, mixed with pretty prints making for an unexpected update to winter florals, repeated on head-to-toe looks for high impact. Longer monochrome lengths were seen at Valentino whilst Céline made an exciting step into print.
Grandma’s Dressing Up Box
Many runways emanated an old world vintage style including Prada, Miu Miu and Dolce & Gabbana. Designs were beautifully bejewelled and featured heavy embellishment whilst colours and prints clashed in magnificent forms. Erdem’s silhouettes fell away from the body with a trapeze style silhouette. Oversized knitwear, high necks and turtle necks were also favoured in this vintage inspired trend.